Montserrat: Mountain, Madonna and Monks

 
 

The mountain range of Montserrat, a short excursion outside of Barcelona, has inspired poets, composers, artists and mystics.  Its dramatic rock formations jutting into the blue Catalonian sky look like something from an exotic planet.  

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The Benedictines came here in the 9th century and formed  a monastic complex and series of hermitages scattered amongst the ravines, ridges and hidden groves of this pine-covered range.  Over the years, the abbey has been enlarged and now welcomes countless pilgrims who come to hike trails, hear the chanted prayers, and visit “La Moreneta,” the Black Madonna.  St. Ignatius, who was drawn to various shrines across northeast Spain including Our Lady of Olatz, Our Lady of Arantzazu and Our Lady of Pilar, came here and had a profound conversion that led to a new life of ministry and the formation of the Jesuits.  

A visit to Montserrat is first and foremost a retreat for the mind, body and spirit.  Winding up the narrow roadway or taking the gauge train to the abbey, one leaves behind the bustle of everyday life.  The abbey and guesthouse sit on a terrace hidden amongst the jagged peaks.   There is a palpable quiet and calm here inviting reflection and walking meditations along the trails.

Illume visits to Montserrat include sufficient free time for solitude, reflection, and relaxation.  Here is helpful information and resources for planning your time.

Spirituality

Many pilgrims take advantage of the various liturgies offered in the main church of the monastery.  There are approximately 80 monks who make up the community here.  They gather for traditional prayer and chant at the times listed below.  Pilgrims are welcome to join.    The Boys’ Choir, one of the oldest music schools in Europe, sings during midday prayer every day except Saturday (and select days when the school is closed and in July and August during school recess).

 

Time Services (Monday through Saturday)
7:30 AM Laudes
11:00 AM Conventual Mass
1:00 PM Monday-Friday Salve and Virolai by Boys’ Choir
Saturdays – Salve and Virolai sung by pilgrims
6:15 PM Rosary
6:45 PM Vespers
7:30 PM Evening Mass (Saturdays only)

 

Confessions Mon-Fri  10:40-11:40; 12-1;  Sat. 10-11:40, 12-1 and 7:30-8
   
  Services (Sundays and Holidays)
7:30 AM Lauds
9:30 AM Mass
11:00 AM Conventual Mass
12:00 PM Salve and Virolai by Boys’ Choir
1:00 PM Mass
6:15 PM Rosary
6:45 PM Vespers, Salve and Motet by Boys’ Choir
7:30 PM Evening mass

 

Confessions – Sun and Holidays – 9:15-11:40, 12-1, 5-6 and 7:30-8
   
  Click here for updates on the Abbey’s website

 

Hiking

Montserrat includes a network of hiking trails that connects historic hermitages, caves and other landmarks in the park and mountain range.  Many people come to Montserrat specifically for the challenging trails offered across the mountain.  Pilgrims can find secluded places for prayer and reflection.  The trails are well-marked and indicate levels of difficulty.  Taking advantage of the funicular or cable car makes it possible to begin trails at their higher elevation and avoid steep climbs.  Below is a general topographical map of the trails and landmarks:

 

Some of the more popular walks include:

Saint Jeroni Chapel:  This is a walk that takes about 3.5 hours (7 km) or can be shortened by taking the funicular to Sant Joan (2.5 hours).  Saint Jeroni is an historic chapel high in the mountain range.  There are breathtaking vistas along the route and a downhill path to the monastery.

Santa Cova:  This is the site where legend says shepherds found the image of the Madonna.  Along the route are modern sculptures.  There is a route that leaves from the main sanctuary complex.  The walk back is steep.  Many walk down and then take the funicular back up.

Pla. Trinitat:  This is a trail that begins in the rear area of the abbey complex.  It includes a steep climb at first and then levels off with opportunity to visit some of the older hermitages of Sant Benet, Santissima Trinita, la Santa Creu, and Sant Dimes.  It is said the route takes 1 hour (but one of our staff says it takes a bit longer!).

For more information on routes visit the website of the local funiculars and trains or the website of the Patrimony of Montserrat (which includes maps):

Museum

Heralded as a museum that showcases works from Caravaggio to Picasso, there is an impressive collection of art that has been donated to the monastery over the years.  It is showcased in a state-of-the-art museum under the main plaza of the sanctuary complex.

Food

There are three places to eat at the sanctuary proper.  The Buffet is a large spacious cafeteria located in the main area of the plaza offering a variety of food and beverages.   The Restaurant at the hotel Abat Cisneros offers traditional Cataluyan and Spanish cuisine in an historic setting.  Restaurant Montserrat, located under the main plaza, offers restaurant-style dining with views overlooking the valley below.

Further Afield

Visit the Salnitre Caves.  If you are looking to go on a full-day adventure, consider hiking down to the village of Collbató, to visit the beautiful Salnitre Caves.  These salt-peter caves were home to the areas first settlers during the Neolithic age and are said to have inspired some of Antonio Gaudí’s architecture[1].  Self-guided tours of the caves are not allowed, so make sure you make a reservation through the Collbató Office of Tourism. Upon arrival in town, proceed to the Àrea d’Esplai de la Salut, where the tickets are sold.  After a short hike up to the cave entrance, you will descend 500 meters deep into the mountain.  Make sure you take a jacket to account for the drop in temperature as you venture deeper into the cave.  After your visit to the cave, take some time to explore the charming village of Collbató before hiking back up to Montserrat.  If you go on the third Sunday of the month, you’ll be able to visit Collbató’s charming open-air market, the Mercat de la Tradició[1].  If you’ll be hiking down from Montserrat, make sure you plan carefully!  Day trips like this will require some careful consideration of several factors, including weather conditions, your own physical fitness and hiking abilities, the cave visiting hours, and the time required to hike between Montserrat and Collbató, which is about 1.5 hours each way without breaks[2].  The caves are open on weekends throughout the year, and Tuesday through Sunday in July in August.  For more information, see this brochure from the Collbató Office of Tourism.

For more information visit: Monastery of Montserrat and the Park

Sources:

[1] http://www.infocostabrava.com/collbato/routes/collbato-cueva-salnitre/

[2] http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=1542545

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